WET/DRY SAUNA

The Saunafin infrared saunas are manufactured in our own factory. They are constructed of Western Red cedar in your choice of either Clear or Knotty grade. Cedar is an attractive and aromatic material that has been used for saunas in North America for hundreds of years. The Saunafin control mounts outside and features some unique features such as delay start and child safe lock out. Saunafin offers optional speakers to be connected to your own sound system.

CONDENSATION

A sauna is a HIGH HEAT, LOW HUMIDITY environment. Interior ambient humidity in a home is generally 40-50%. The humidity in a sauna is between 20 - 40% The sauna heater is actually baking the air inside the sauna. When water is added over the sauna rocks, there is a blast of steam, but it dissipates quickly. A sauna should not be confused with a steambath where a generator produces steam and the humidity is high.

STEAM SAUNA OR STEAMBATH

Many people use the expression steam sauna. Most are referring to a steambath as opposed to sauna. A sauna should not be confused with a steambath. A steambath or steam sauna has a steam generator located outside that produces steam and pipes it into the room. A steambath has humidity at or close to 100%. Despite the relatively lower temperature (100-1200F), the room feels very hot because of the of the ambient humidity.

OPERATING COST

Saunas are very inexpensive to operate. Temperature is irrelevant; the cost of electricity is based strictly on time usage. A residential sauna is on for about an hour, once or twice a week. The average cost for electricity is 7-9 cents per kilowatt-hour. A sauna with a 6 kW heater would cost 40 - 50 cents per use.

DRAINAGE

Commercial saunas should have a drain in the center of the floor (sloped to the drain) to facilitate cleaning. Most residential saunas have drains, but it is not essential. Water should only be used in moderation. It is splashed on the rocks and evaporates.

WATER SUPPLY

A permanent water supply is not required. Under no circumstances should a water tap be directly over the heater. A sauna bucket and ladle are the preferred method for applying water to the sauna rocks.

FLOOR

For residential, tile is attractive and functional; however it is also acceptable to have concrete or a PVC waterproof floor covering over a concrete or wood sub-floor. For commercial installations we recommend a non-slip ceramic tile over the floor and up the face of the curb. A removable "duckboard" cedar floor can be placed over the walking area of the sauna.

HEIGHT

The standard height for a sauna is 82-1/2" . This is more than sufficient to allow for a standard two tier bench. This height is the most efficient as it limits the cubic area and it keeps the warmest air closer to the sauna users. The height should never be greater than 8 '-0".

SAFEGUARDS

All heaters are equipped with a thermostat to regulate the temperature and a 60-minute timer to automatically shut down the sauna after one hour. There is also a built-in high temperature cut-off to prevent overheating.

VENTING

Exhaust: There is very little condensation from a sauna, so an exhaust vent is not necessary.

Cross Ventilation / Fresh Air: Our standard and preferred method is to undercut the door. We leave a 1" gap under all our doors for fresh air intake.

In addition, you may choose to install an inlet vent behind the heater and an outlet in the far corner under the top bench. Depending on the sauna location, i.e. outside wall, placing vents through the wall may not be practical.